The Appropriated Fashion Sense of Lust Within Luxe
Spring 2022, written by Luxe Aurano.
Society loves sex culture inspiration for the runway, but not for reality.
Fetish and bondage kinks alongside overpriced Birkin bags; that seems to be an unconventional combination of two opposing topics. BDSM is a questionable subject in all, especially to those who aren’t as open-minded with their sexuality. The fabric of leather can be global in terms of use and ideas. Probably the most sought out bag in the world would be the Hermès Birkin (ranging retail of $11,000), with the price trippeling on the second hand market due to rarity. There seems to be an acceptance with the great divide between these two sectors of fashion: unconventional sex and high luxury. Although, merging the two can be a mixing pot that’s better than the one upon the common housewife’s stove.
A sense of comedic irony is alive with Hermès. One can almost say it is the most luxurious sex store in this day and age. While the brand is originating from the equestrian lifestyle of horse care and riding, the use of harnesses and whips has been used differently throughout time. Although, there’s a given opinion from such a brand that strives on high class craftsmanship and exclusivity. There is no doubt that Hermès would reject someone who looks remotely provocative to come into their store.
There’s no set in stone rule for a housewife who owns a Birkin, to not be able to associate with questionable characteristics such as foreplay. Many societies around the world has set a tone that it can be looked down on to find pride in one’s sexual desires. Although, fashion has helped when it came to breaking down boundaries and stereotypical thoughts to allow much more open
mindedness. Fashion designers help tell stories of personal experiences and fantasy ideas. Perhaps a public reveal of sexual creativity can break the boundaries of judgment.
Apart from a sticky white fluid protruding from the male crotch, Alessandro Michele for Gucci is keen when designing all-in-your-face fashion. Modern day Gucci is extremely maximalist in all aspects: good and bad. From overly done printed monograms, to clashing fabrics, it has been the new and accepted signature. The brand itself is a cultural movement, and recently there has been a common characteristic of sex being projected onto the runway.
Starting from their Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection, leading up to their most recent show (Fall 2022), there has been countless examples of sex culture references. Models walk the runway with leather headwear, embellished harnesses, and semi-covered garments that range in lust-like fabrics: leather, lace, and silk. A recent handbag that was released (Gucci Bamboo 1947 Medium Top Handle Bag) is adorned with a black whip with metal studs. It gives reference to the equestrian lifestyle–just like the brand’s signature horsebit–with a sexual manipulation to the thought. The top handle piece seems to signal something that is used on an individual who’s bent over within the bedroom. If it wasn't for horse riding, perhaps doggy-style would be the alternative for those who want something more pleasurable.
A mix of sexual actions and luxury fashion seems to allow an integration of two types of cultures. Although, Alessandro Michele’s Gucci isn't the first time a designer has been provocative with their designs. Britain’s adorned fashion designer, the late Alexander McQueen, has pushed the boundaries between high fashion and subcultures that range from underground clubbing to sexual lifestyle.
Probably one of his most questionable collections was from Fall 1995, titled The Highland Rape. McQueen sent models storming the runway with breasts and asses on reveal.
The models had looked like they had been sexually assulted, with the garments torn on all areas suggesting a sense of forceful grabbing and tearing. The inspiration was from England’s rape of Scotland. It was a historic reference and perhaps not the most positive outlook on sex. McQueen wanted to project the strength of women, even after such an unfortunate event. The hurtful truth of his country's past is what drove him.
With this controversial collection, it had caused quite a stir with the media. By being involved within this sexual mixing pot, it had allowed the public eye to understand his unconventional way of thinking. McQueen is also a part of the LGBTQ+ community, and his creativity continued into the night club life.
A designer by day, and a rager by night, Alexander McQueen was not a stranger when it came to the club scene. It was borderline sex with nasty flamboyance, but those who were involved found this environment to be one of self expression. Alexander McQueen found love and attraction to such individuality. A sense of chaos had filled the dark rooms, but not without an idea of love for one another. Perhaps it was a burning white powder that was sniffed into one’s nose which made the environment more euphoric than it really was. The scenery has helped McQueen relieve stress from such a high-pressure career, and perhaps inspired his other collections when it came to provocative form fitting clothes and partial nudity.
Even after McQueen’s passing, the UK is known for the creation of his impactful influence. The night scene is also well known within the country, so one would think that open sexuality and expression would be accepted. Although, within these modern times, it seems that sexual expression is best used for the runway fantasy instead of the rave reality.
The UK’s kink club scene is under pressure, with possibilities of future nonexistence. Mainly caused by the Tower Hamlets Council, they feel opposed to the openness of such nudity
and subcultured interests. The kink club scenes seems to be a merging between sexual openess with club nightlife. The environment is a bit unclear if it’s considered a place for sex work or music entertainment. With the gray area in question, it is contradictive for such a country who has helped shape someone like the provoking Alexander McQueen, then not take pride in its own self-made subcultures. The relationship between the late fashion designer and his old night habits go hand in hand, yet there seems to be more acceptance for sex on the runway, than on the dancefloor.
From bondage and Birkin bags, to runways and raves; a clash of ideas can influence many. Here lies the perfect example of trickle-up theory in fashion, where the subcultures have set the current luxury trend. While many may take a modern approach on things, the reality of it all is still set in uncomfort to a few. The open-minded are a focal point of shut-down by those who are not experienced enough to understand such a culture. As I write down my remaining words, I feel a sense of unease knowing my fellow creatives are being judged in ways that I express my own identity. Following this, I will continue packing my Spring break attire. It just so happens that my luggage includes a few of my own leather garments; not just for my personal style, but for the bedroom as well...
